"Sticht" Plates
(Slotted Plate Belayers)

The first belay plate that became popular in my area was the Salewa Sticht plate, so any plate with one or two slotted holes is generically referred to as a Sticht Plate, even though this isn't legally correct.

I've switched to using a belay tube now, but I wouldn't hesitate to use a slotted belay plate instead.

Fritz Sticht and Hermann Huber invented the Sticht Plate and filed for a patent in late May 1969. They received German Patent DE1927155A1, “Braking device for a rope, especially for mountaineers,” in late November the following year. Salewa started producing Sticht plates around this time. Early plates came in several shapes, but Salewa soon settled on a fairly standard arrangement of a 66 mm. diameter, 10 mm. thick aluminum plate. Günther Gabriel’s GAB factory in Germany made Salewa's Sticht Plates for many years. GAB later made Sticht plates under their own label, GAB.

Apparently not considered in the U.I.A.A. Committee on Belaying Methods Bulletin 50 (June 1972)[1], the June 1974 report[2] included the Sticht Plate. I'll not summarize their conclusions, as the state of the art has evolved somewhat since those days. The initial hesitation in using these plates instead of a hip belay was soon overcome, and the Sticht Plate acquired considerable popularity in the climbing community. Many companies copied and offered variations of Salewa’s Sticht plate.

Sticht Plates came in several variations. Some had one slot, some had two. Some slots were sized for 9 mm. rope, some for 11 mm. Many versions incorporated a spring that helped the plate release under load. With the former “clean climbing” ethic giving rise to climbers carrying many slung chocks, the springs’ tremendous capacity for entanglement proved disadvantageous.

Some Sticht Plates are incredibly lightweight. These don't have much reserve metal to allow any substantial wear, so I avoid them. Most of the standard plates have a large reserve and are not likely to fail under normal wear.

Sticht Plates are still readily available, but they are no longer common. When Black Diamond introduced the Air Traffic Controller, the days of the Sticht Plate were numbered. Weighing next to nothing, the ATC soon pushed the Sticht plate out of favor among the masses.

[1] I do not have this report. I based this statement on Walt Fricke, August 1973. The report of the U.I.A.A. Belaying Methods Committee. Off Belay, #10, pp. 2–5.

[2] Again, I do not have this report. I based this statement on Jurgen Meyer-Arendt, October 1974. Report of the U.I.A.A. Belaying Methods Committee. Off Belay, #17, pp. 15–19.

In the following table, red in the "ID" column indicates a single slot plate, green indicates a double slot plate, and violet indicates a longer guide-length slot. A gray background in the "Description" column indicates a plate with a spring.

Slot length is an important factor in determining the friction provided by the device, so I've added a column giving the slot length(s) in millimeters. Remember, the slot lengthens as the plate wears.

Image	ID	Device	Description	Acquired	Weight	Height	Width	Thickness	Std. volume	Slot Length
	748	Advanced Base Camp (/w Spring), Version A	Forged Al, hard anodized, round, 2 slots, spring	Yucca Dune, 2001	83	63	63	45	179	29.2
	1829	Advanced Base Camp, Version B	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring	Travis Piper, 2014	91	63	63	42	167	29.0
	2819	Camp	Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots	Robert Gould, 2021	63	63	63	11	44	29.5
	2884	Camp (/w Spring), Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring	Bev Pearson, 2021	86	63	63	45	178	29.0
	774 3729	Camp (/w Spring), Version B	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring	Barrabés.com, 2003 Chris Christensen, 2022	81	63	63	43	171	29.5
	1600 2882	Camp (/w Spring), Version C	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring	Alec Rowley, 2008 Bev Pearson, 2021	87	63	63	44	173	29.1
	1628	Camp Ovo	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 long rope slots, 2 subtriangular eyes	Needle Sports, 2009	57	113	51	9	54	49.9
	723	Cassin #217, Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes	Climb Max, 1999	64	94	54	11	56	46.1
	865	Cassin #217, Version B	Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes	Walkhigh Mountaineering, 2007	62	94	53	11	53	46.1
	602	Cassin #221.02 (/w Spring)	Forged Al, hardcoat, round, 2 slots, spring	Exkursion, 1993	78	64	64	50	205	29.2 30.9
	697	Cassin #221.11	Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots	Exkursion, 1996	65	65	65	13	55	30.7
	696	Cassin #221.12 (/w Spring)	Forged Al, hard anodized, round, 2 slots, spring	1996	85	64	64	50	205	30.9
	603	Chain Link	Welded steel rod	1970s	51	51	34	9	16	34.5
	604	Chouinard 11	Forged Al, unfinished, single slot	Skinny Skis, 1980	13	47	22	11	11	30.6
	813	Chouinard 9/9	Forged Al, unfinished, two slots	Mike Adams, 2005	20	44	33	12	18	27.0
	2800	Climbing Technology Crocodile	Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 long rope slots, 2 eyes	CanyonZone.com - Gertjan van Pelt, 2020	63	125	50	9	56	55.4
	1602	Climbing Technology Kaiser	Forged Al, polished, 2 slots, 2 notches, round eye	Au Vieux Campeur, 2008	81	129	47	20	122	41.3
	811	Clog, Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots	John Vaartjes, 2005	58	63	63	15	57	29.4
	2851	Clog, Version B	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots	Ron H. Clementi, 2021	60	63	62	14	56	29.6
	837	Clog, Version C	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, cable keeper	Joe MacLeod, 2006	75	179	63	15	162	29.4
	2872	Clog Cosmic Arrestor, Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots	Bev Pearson, 2021	66	62	62	14	54	29.5
	680	Clog Cosmic Arrestor, Version B	Forged, unfinished, 2 slots	Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994	64	62	62	14	54	29.5
	605	CMI Micro Belay Plate, Version A	Forged Al, hardcoat, single slot	John E. Weinel, Inc., 1988	11	47	25	10	12	32.9
	3726	CMI Micro Belay Plate. Version A	Forged Al, hardcoat, single slot, cable keeper	Chris Christensen, 2022	15	65	38	10	25	33.0
	606	CMI Micro Twin Belay Plate	Forged Al, hardcoat, double slot	John E. Weinel, Inc., 1988 Robert Gould, 2021	16	40	39	10	16	23.8
	868	CMI Rescue Belay Brake, Version A	Forged Al, hard anodized, large slot, 4 notches	Tom Vines, 2007	120	89	89	10	77	32.7
	607 3790	CMI Rescue Belay Brake. Version B	Forged Al, hard anodized, large slot, 4 notches	John E. Weinel, Inc. Kelley Deem, 2022	114	89	89	10	79	37.0
	608 3717	DMM Betterbrake, Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots	1990 Ken Pritchard, 2012	69	64	64	14	57	29.3
	2872	DMM Betterbrake, Version B	Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots	Sarah Arsenaut, 2021	73	64	64	14	57	29.7
	1866	Edelrid Belay Station Sling Deluxe	Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 slots, 2 carabiner eyes, sewn 12mm webbing V-sling	Alpinsport Basis GmbH, 2015	101	117	43	21	105	44.2
	1773 2805	Forrest	Milled Al Plate, 1 slot	Stéphane Pennequin, 2008 Marty Karabin, 2021	30	67	38	6	16	32.9
	3820	French Gravity Equipment (/w Spring)	Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 slots, spring	Vintage Climbing, 2022	78	62	61	46	175	27.3 32.1
	831	GAB 9/11 (/w Spring), Version A	Forged Al, hard anodized 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer	Todd Paris, 2005	96	66	66	48	209	27.4 32.4
	896	GAB 9/11 (/w Spring), Version B	Forged Al, hard anodized 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer	Stephen Bailey, 2008	96	68	66	48	214	27.0 32.0
	1613	GAB 9/11 (/w Spring), Version C	Forged Al, hard anodized 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer	Jaime Bothwell, 2008	98	68	67	48	217	27.0 32.0
	798	GAB 11/11	Forged Al, hard anodized, round, 2 slots	Rachel Boersma, 2004	63	64	64	10	41	30.4
	1886	GAB  11/11 (/w spring)	Forged Al, hard anodized, 2 slots, spring & retainer	Yinetyme (Nocogear), 2016	94	67	66	47	212	30.0
	2796	Grivel Scream	Forged Al, hard anodized, 2 tapered slots, 2 eyes	Jay Shifferdecker, 2020	45	95	44	11	46	38.0
	1869 1876	Grivel Shuttle	Forged Al, hard anodized, 2 slots, 1 subtrapezoidal and 3 round eyes.	Sunny Sports, 2015 Robert Brock, 2016	86	125	87	17	185	52.4
	678	Hugh Banner, Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slot	Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994	32	46	44	13	26	28.4
	662	Hugh Banner, Version B	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slot, cable keeper	Inner Mountain Outfitters, 1994	35	46	44	13	26	28.6
	611	Hugh Banner, Version C	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, rod keeper	Inner Mountain Outfitters, 1993	44	46	44	62	125	28.3
	665 1631 2777	Hugh Banner Bigger Brake (/w Spring), Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots, spring	Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 Zachary Britner, 2009 Arthur W. McCarthy, 2020	80	64	64	41	168	29.0
	775	Hugh Banner Bigger Brake, Version B	Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots	Barrabés.com, 2003	59	64	64	10	42	29.0
	814	Hugh Banner Bigger Brake, Version C	Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots	Marcus Warme, 2005	59	64	64	10	42	29.0
	1761	Hugh Banner Bigger Brake, Version D	Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots, plastic-covered cable keeper	Tom Furey, 2012	63	190	64	10	123	29.1
	3716	Hugh Banner Bigger Brake, Version E	Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 slots, spring removed	Ken Pritchard, 2022	59	63	63	10	38	29.3
	1800	Hugh Banner "Sticht" (/w Spring), Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring & retainer	John Blackmore, 2013	89	64	64	47	195	27.7 34.0
	2887	Hugh Banner "Sticht" (/w Spring) Version B	Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 slots, spring & retainer	Gareth Bryant, 2021	90	64	64	42	174	27.7 34.0
	839	Kong	Forged steel, plated, 2 slots	Lorenzo Dotti, 2006	54	60	45	8	22	45.0
	1824	Kong Full (864.15)	Forged Al, hard anodized, 2 slots, 1 oval and 3 round eyes.	Outdoor Shopping, 2014	103	125	90	10	115	45.1
	689	Kong Gi–gi, Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes	Inner Mountain Outfitters, 1995	71	113	50	17	96	49.8
	801	Kong Gi–gi, Version B	Forged Al, soft anodized 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes	eBay, 2004	66	114	50	16	91	50.0
	1618	Kong Gi–gi, Version C	Forged Al, hard anodized 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes	Dan MacKinnon, 2009	63	113	49	12	69	50.0
	3771	Kong Gi–gi, Version D	Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes	Quinton Rogers, 2022	63	113	50	11	63	50.0
	1804	Krok Shayba Shtikhta (Шайба Штихта)	Milled Al, painted, 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes	Gear4Rocks, 2013	49	91	46	10	43	41.3
	615 2729	MSR Belay Link, Version A	Welded Al chain link	Mountain Safety Research Mark Schneider, 2018	22	53	36	10	19	34.5
	876	MSR Belay Link, Version B	Welded Al chain link, soft anodized	Bill Ivanoff, 2007	25	50	38	11	21	31.4
	3784	New Alp	Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 slots, eye	Denis Pivot, 2022	44	85	46	9	35	50.1
	854	Outside	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, 2 keeper cord holes	Graham Barrett, 2007	37	51	46	10	24	28.2 31.8
	2791	PBI, Version A	Milled Al, unfinished, single slot	Arthur W. McCarthy, 2020	34	68	39	7	17	33.4
	617 3786	PBI, Version B	Milled Al, hard anodized, single slot	International Mountaineering, ca. 1979 Bruce D. Vinkemulder, 2022	28	68	38	6	16	33.4
	2728 3719	PBI, Version C	Milled Al, hard anodized, single slot	Mark Schneider, 2018 Wild Gear Deals, 2022	33	67	38	7	17	33.0
	618 1643	REI	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots	Recreational Equipment Inc., 1985 Duane Frerichs, 2009	39	51	43	15	33	31.9
	2723	Rock Exotica TactiBelay F6	Milled Al, hard anodized, 2 slots, 2 eyes	RubiconGear, 2018	29	95	36	9	31	47.7
	474	Russian, Version A	Milled Al, unfinished, 2 slots, 4 horns, 2 eyes	John E. Weinel, Inc., 1990	88	110	67	10	74	38.8
	493	Russian, Version B	Milled Al, unfinished, 2 slots, 4 horns, 2 eyes	John E. Weinel, Inc., 1990	77	96	70	10	67	36.4
	899 3774	Salewa #1616	Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 slots, spring	Alec Rowley, 2008 Sandra Gomez, 2022	81	61	61	42	157	29.6 31.2
	1743	Salewa 9/11, Version B	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, cable keeper	Claudio Fontanari, 2012	46	51	54	67	187	27.2 33.0
	812	Salewa Sticht, 9/9, Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots	S. Koch, 2005	64	66	66	10	44	27.5
	851	Salewa Sticht, 9/9, Version B	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots	Jayme Trombly, 2007	65	61	61	10	38	27.5
	1748	Salewa Sticht, 9/9, Version C	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots	Brian Bowness, 2012	70	66	66	10	45	28.6
	790	Salewa Sticht, 9/11, Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot	Mike Adams, 2003	61	67	67	10	45	27.0 32.2
	1679 2807	Salewa Sticht, 9/11, Version B	Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot	Harald Müller, 2010 Robert Gould, 2021	64	66	66	10	43	26.9 31.8
	1700	Salewa Sticht, 9/11, Version C	Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot	Thomas Kopp, 2010	55	63	63	10	39	27.5 32.9
	1704	Salewa Sticht, 9/11, Version D	Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot	Sidney Evans, 2010	63	66	65	10	41	27.0 32.6
	1712 2719	Salewa Sticht 11, Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 1 slot	Thomas Cravens, 2011 Tom O’Connor, 2017	39	67	34	10	23	33.0
	891	Salewa Sticht 11, Version B	Forged Al, unfinished, 1 slot	Jim Chaney, 2008	76	64	64	10	199	30.6
	1678	Salewa Sticht 11, Version C	Forged Al, unfinished, 1 slot	Harald Müller, 2010	69	63	63	10	40	30.2
	621 2847	Salewa Sticht 11/11, Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots	?, 1974 Tom Smith, 2021	54	61	61	10	37	33.0
	2852	Salewa Sticht 11/11, Version B	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots	Ron H. Clementi, 2021	61	65	65	10	44	30.4
	1882 2721	Salewa Sticht 11/11, Version C	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots	CarolJo Rushin-Elron, 2016 Jeff Marksz, 2017	58	64	64	10	41	33.0
	3707	Salewa Sticht 11/11, Version D	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots	Keith S. Bramer, 2022	50	62	62	9	36	30.8
	849	Salewa Sticht 9/9 (/w spring), Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring & retainer	Gareth Parry, 2007	96	68	66	45	202	28.0
	1677	Salewa Sticht 9/9 (/w spring), Version B	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring & retainer	Harald Müller, 2010	96	67	66	48	211	26.9
	2858	Salewa Sticht 9/9 (/w spring), Version C	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring & retainer	Fadi Kilani, 2021	98	68	66	50	224	26.8
	620	Salewa Sticht 9/11 (/w spring) Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer	1970s	96	66	66	48	209	26.8 32.8
	826 1729 2672	Salewa Sticht 9/11 (/w spring) Version B	Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer	Patrice St. Germain, 2005 Steve Booth, 2011 (5) Bob Thrun Collection, 2017	98	67	68	42	191	26.8 32.8
	855 2762	Salewa Sticht 9/11 (/w spring) Version C	Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer	Craig Kubanoff, 2007 Jim Morrison, 2019	98	66	67	46	203	27.0 33.0
	1695 1696	Salewa Sticht 9/11 (/w spring) Version D	Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer	Jeff Levin, 2010 Steve Booth, 2011	97	68	67	48	215	27.3 33.6
	1730	Salewa Sticht 9/11 (/w spring) Version E	Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer	Steve Booth, 2011	94	68	66	47	211	26.5 31.9
	827	Salewa Sticht 11 (/w spring), Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large slot, spring & retainer	Patrice St. Germain, 2005	108	65	66	46	199	30.6
	600	Salewa Sticht 11 (/w spring), Version B	Forged Al, soft anodized, 1 large slot, spring	Alec Rowley, 2008	98	66	65	45	194	30.7
	1641	Salewa Sticht 11 (/w spring), Version C	Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large slot, spring & straight retainer	Mark Adler, 2009	106	66	65	49	208	31
	1642	Salewa Sticht 11 (/w spring), Version D	Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large slot, spring, no retainer	Mark Adler, 2009	92	64	65	47	197	31
	844	Salewa Sticht 11/11 (/w spring), Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring & retainer	Zak Ryersbach, 2007	86	64	67	44	190	31.7
	1733	Salewa Sticht 11/11 (/w spring), Version B	Forged Al, painted, 2 slots, spring & retainer	Jean Husband, 2011	99	68	66	46	204	30.2
	1734	Salewa Sticht 11/11 (/w spring), Version C	Forged Al, painted, 2 slots, spring & retainer	Jean Husband, 2011	99	68	66	49	218	30.2
	623	Single Rope Technique Equipment BP1	Forged Al, soft anodized, round, 2 slots	Raven Products, 1990	50	61	61	10	37	28.7
	624	Single Rope Technique Equipment BPS (/w Spring)	Forged Al, soft anodized, round, 2 slots, screwed spring	Raven Products, 1990	89	61	61	46	171	29.9
	616	Three-slot Device	Forged steel, unfinished, 3 slots	Ed Sira, 1991	115	99	498	7	345	34.0
	675	Trango (/w Spring), Version A	Forged Al, hard anodized, round, 2 slots, spring	Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994	80	63	63	48	191	28.9 30.9
	679	Trango, Version B	Forged Al, soft anodized, round, 2 slots	Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994	69	63	63	11	44	28.9 30.9
	1756	Troll	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slot	Tom Furey, 2012	61	63	63	11	43	29.2
	2867	Unknown 9/11, Version A	Milled Al, soft anodized, 2 slots	Adventure Outdoors, 2021	106	70	70	13	63	30.9 32.2
	3821	Unknown 9/11, Version B	Milled Al, unfinished, 2 slots	Vintage Climbing, 2022	41	52	52	10	27	27.3 32.1
	1610	Unknown 11, Version A	Milled Al, cable keeper crimped through holes	eBay, 2008	45	67	38	87	223	33.2
	1605	Unknown 11, Version B	Milled Al, shrink-tube covered cable keeper crimped through holes	eBay, 2008	46	67	39	75	192	33.0
	3822	Unknown 11, Version C	Milled Al, unfinished, 1 slot	Vintage Climbing, 2022	43	54	35	10	19	33.0
	3715	Unknown 11, Version C	Aluminum plate, 1 slot	Ken Pritchard, 2022	69	63	63	10	38	27.6
	2866	Unknown 11/11	Milled Al, soft anodized, 2 slots	Adventure Outdoors, 2021	82	64	65	13	54	32.3
	795	Viking, Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, keeper hole	Shawn Hinz, 2004	60	58	60	11	36	26.8 32.2
	3711	Viking, Version B	Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, keeper hole	James Giant, 2022	65	58	60	11	37	26.8 32.0
	1785	Viking Dynabrake	Forged Al, polished, 2 slots	Jene Mercer, 2012	75	65	60	14	56	29.9
	2848	Wild Country Brakeman, Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots	Tom Smith, 2021	35	51	46	10	23	28.1 31.0
	681 2792	Wild Country Brakeman, Version B	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots	Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 Arthur W. McCarthy, 2020	35	51	46	10	23	28.2 30.9
	672	Wild Country Wired Brakeman	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, cable keeper	Exkursion, 1994	48	51	46	10	23	28.2 31.2
	875	Zero-G ZBD (/w Spring)	Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 slots, spring	Cotswold Outdoor, 2007	81	63	63	41	162	29.2 31.0

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