The first belay plate that became popular in my area was the Salewa Sticht plate, so any plate with one or two slotted holes is generically referred to as a Sticht Plate, even though this isn't legally correct. The initial hesitation in using these plates (instead of a hip belay!) was soon overcome. I've switched to using a belay tube now, but I wouldn't hesitate to use a slotted belay plate instead.
Some of the belay plates are incredibly lightweight. They don't have much reserve metal to allow any substantial wear, so I would avoid them. Most of the standard plates have a large reserve and are not likely to fail under normal wear.
Sticht plates with springs seem to be easier to use and don't bind as much as the ones without; however, the spring tends to get caught on everything when not in use.
Slot length is an important factor in determining the friction provided by the device, so I've added a column giving the slot length(s) in millimeters. Remember, the slot lengthens as the plate wears.
I use the following criteria to decide whether to call something a Sticht Plate:
The early example that I use for comparison when I consider placing a device into this category is the Salewa Sticht plate. Some small examples like the REI 11/11 may also fit the written criteria that I use for defining a Tube Belayers, so I used my version of common sense to decide. |
In the following table, red in the "ID" column indicates a single slot plate, green indicates a double slot plate, and violet indicates a longer guide-length slot. A gray background in the "Description" column indicates a plate with a spring.
Image | ID | Device | Description | Acquired | Weight | Height | Width | Thickness | Std. volume | Slot Length |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
748 | Advanced Base Camp, Version A | Forged Al, hard anodized, round, 2 slots, spring | Yucca Dune, 2001 | 83 | 63 | 63 | 45 | 179 | 29.2 |
|
1829 | Advanced Base Camp, Version B | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring | Travis Piper, 2014 | 91 | 63 | 63 | 42 | 167 | 29.0 |
|
2819 | Camp | Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots | Robert Gould, 2021 | 63 | 63 | 63 | 11 | 44 | 29.5 |
|
2884 | Camp (/w spring), Version A | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring | Bev Pearson, 2021 | 86 | 63 | 63 | 45 | 178 | 29.0 |
|
774 3729 |
Camp (/w spring), Version B | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring |
|
81 | 63 | 63 | 43 | 171 | 29.5 |
|
1600 2882 |
Camp (/w spring), Version C | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring |
|
87 | 63 | 63 | 44 | 173 | 29.1 |
|
1628 | Camp Ovo | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 long rope slots, 2 subtriangular eyes | Needle Sports, 2009 | 57 | 113 | 51 | 9 | 54 | 49.9 |
|
723 | Cassin #217, Version A | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes | Climb Max, 1999 | 64 | 94 | 54 | 11 | 56 | 46.1 |
|
865 | Cassin #217, Version B | Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes | Walkhigh Mountaineering, 2007 | 62 | 94 | 53 | 11 | 53 | 46.1 |
|
602 | Cassin #221.02 | Forged Al, hardcoat, round, 2 slots, spring | Exkursion, 1993 | 78 | 64 | 64 | 50 | 205 | 29.2 30.9 |
|
697 | Cassin #221.11 | Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots | Exkursion, 1996 | 65 | 65 | 65 | 13 | 55 | 30.7 |
|
696 | Cassin #221.12 | Forged Al, hard anodized, round, 2 slots, spring | 1996 | 85 | 64 | 64 | 50 | 205 | 30.9 |
|
603 | Chain Link | Welded steel rod | 1970s | 51 | 51 | 34 | 9 | 16 | 34.5 |
|
604 | Chouinard 11![]() |
Forged Al, unfinished, single slot | Skinny Skis, 1980 | 13 | 47 | 22 | 11 | 11 | 30.6 |
|
813 | Chouinard 9/9![]() |
Forged Al, unfinished, two slots | Mike Adams, 2005 | 20 | 44 | 33 | 12 | 18 | 27.0 |
|
2800 | Climbing Technology Crocodile | Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 long rope slots, 2 eyes | CanyonZone.com - Gertjan van Pelt, 2020 | 63 | 125 | 50 | 9 | 56 | 55.4 |
|
1602 | Climbing Technology Kaiser | Forged Al, polished, 2 slots, 2 notches, round eye | Au Vieux Campeur, 2008 | 81 | 129 | 47 | 20 | 122 | 41.3 |
|
811 | Clog, Version A | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots | John Vaartjes, 2005 | 58 | 63 | 63 | 15 | 57 | 29.4 |
|
2851 | Clog, Version B | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots | Ron H. Clementi, 2021 | 60 | 63 | 62 | 14 | 56 | 29.6 |
|
837 | Clog, Version C | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, cable keeper | Joe MacLeod, 2006 | 75 | 179 | 63 | 15 | 162 | 29.4 |
|
2872 | Clog Cosmic Arrestor, Version A | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots | Bev Pearson, 2021 | 66 | 62 | 62 | 14 | 54 | 29.5 |
|
680 | Clog Cosmic Arrestor, Version B | Forged, unfinished, 2 slots | Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 | 64 | 62 | 62 | 14 | 54 | 29.5 |
|
605 | CMI Micro Belay Plate, Version A | Forged Al, hardcoat, single slot | John E. Weinel, Inc., 1988 | 11 | 47 | 25 | 10 | 12 | 32.9 |
|
3726 | CMI Micro Belay Plate. Version A | Forged Al, hardcoat, single slot, cable keeper | Chris Christensen, 2022 | 15 | 65 | 38 | 10 | 25 | 33.0 |
|
606 | CMI Micro Twin Belay Plate | Forged Al, hardcoat, double slot |
|
16 | 40 | 39 | 10 | 16 | 23.8 |
|
868 | CMI Rescue Belay Brake, Version A | Forged Al, hard anodized, large slot, 4 notches | Tom Vines, 2007 | 120 | 89 | 89 | 10 | 77 | 32.7 |
|
607 | CMI Rescue Belay Brake. Version B | Forged Al, hard anodized, large slot, 4 notches | John E. Weinel, Inc. | 114 | 89 | 89 | 10 | 79 | 37.0 |
|
608 3717 |
DMM Betterbrake, Version A | Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots |
|
69 | 64 | 64 | 14 | 57 | 29.3 |
|
2872 | DMM Betterbrake, Version B | Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots | Sarah Arsenaut, 2021 | 73 | 64 | 64 | 14 | 57 | 29.7 |
1866 | Edelrid Belay Station Sling Deluxe | Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 slots, 2 carabiner eyes, sewn 12mm webbing V-sling | Alpinsport Basis GmbH, 2015 | 101 | 117 | 43 | 21 | 105 | 44.2 | |
|
1773 2805 |
Forrest | Milled Al Plate, 1 slot |
|
30 | 67 | 38 | 6 | 16 | 32.9 |
|
831 | GAB 9/11, Version A |
Forged Al, hard anodized 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer | Todd Paris, 2005 | 96 | 66 | 66 | 48 | 209 | 27.4 32.4 |
|
896 | GAB 9/11, Version B |
Forged Al, hard anodized 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer | Stephen Bailey, 2008 | 96 | 68 | 66 | 48 | 214 | 27.0 32.0 |
|
1613 | GAB 9/11, Version C |
Forged Al, hard anodized 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer | Jaime Bothwell, 2008 | 98 | 68 | 67 | 48 | 217 | 27.0 32.0 |
|
798 | GAB 11/11 | Forged Al, hard anodized, round, 2 slots | Rachel Boersma, 2004 | 63 | 64 | 64 | 10 | 41 | 30.4 |
|
1886 | GAB, 11/11 (/w spring) | Forged Al, hard anodized, 2 slots, spring & retainer | Yinetyme (Nocogear), 2016 | 94 | 67 | 66 | 47 | 212 | 30.0 |
|
2796 | Grivel Scream | Forged Al, hard anodized, 2 tapered slots, 2 eyes | Jay Shifferdecker, 2020 | 45 | 95 | 44 | 11 | 46 | 38.0 |
|
1869 1876 |
Grivel Shuttle | Forged Al, hard anodized, 2 slots, 1 subtrapezoidal and 3 round eyes. |
|
86 | 125 | 87 | 17 | 185 | 52.4 |
|
678 | Hugh Banner, Version A | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slot | Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 | 32 | 46 | 44 | 13 | 26 | 28.4 |
|
662 | Hugh Banner, Version B | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slot, cable keeper | Inner Mountain Outfitters, 1994 | 35 | 46 | 44 | 13 | 26 | 28.6 |
|
611 | Hugh Banner, Version C | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, rod keeper | Inner Mountain Outfitters, 1993 | 44 | 46 | 44 | 62 | 125 | 28.3 |
|
665 1631 2777 |
Hugh Banner Bigger Brake, Version A | Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots, spring |
|
80 | 64 | 64 | 41 | 168 | 29.0 |
|
775 | Hugh Banner Bigger Brake, Version B | Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots | Barrabés.com, 2003 | 59 | 64 | 64 | 10 | 42 | 29.0 |
|
814 | Hugh Banner Bigger Brake, Version C | Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots | Marcus Warme, 2005 | 59 | 64 | 64 | 10 | 42 | 29.0 |
|
1761 | Hugh Banner Bigger Brake, Version D | Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots, plastic-covered cable keeper | Tom Furey, 2012 | 63 | 190 | 64 | 10 | 123 | 29.1 |
|
3716 | Hugh Banner Bigger Brake, Version E | Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 slots, spring removed | Ken Pritchard, 2022 | 59 | 63 | 63 | 10 | 38 | 29.3 |
|
1800 | Hugh Banner "Sticht," Version A | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring & retainer | John Blackmore, 2013 | 89 | 64 | 64 | 47 | 195 | 27.7 34.0 |
|
2887 | Hugh Banner "Sticht," Version B | Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 slots, spring & retainer | Gareth Bryant, 2021 | 90 | 64 | 64 | 42 | 174 | 27.7 34.0 |
|
839 | Kong | Forged steel, plated, 2 slots | Lorenzo Dotti, 2006 | 54 | 60 | 45 | 8 | 22 | 45.0 |
|
1824 | Kong Full (864.15) | Forged Al, hard anodized, 2 slots, 1 oval and 3 round eyes. | Outdoor Shopping, 2014 | 103 | 125 | 90 | 10 | 115 | 45.1 |
|
689 | Kong Gi-gi, Version A | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes | Inner Mountain Outfitters, 1995 | 71 | 113 | 50 | 17 | 96 | 49.8 |
|
801 | Kong Gi-gi, Version B | Forged Al, soft anodized 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes | eBay, 2004 | 66 | 114 | 50 | 16 | 91 | 50.0 |
|
1618 | Kong Gi-gi, Version C | Forged Al, hard anodized 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes | Dan MacKinnon, 2009 | 63 | 113 | 49 | 12 | 69 | 50.0 |
|
3771 | Kong Gi-gi, Version D | Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes | Quinton Rogers, 2022 | 63 | 113 | 50 | 11 | 63 | 50.0 |
|
1804 | Krok Shayba Shtikhta (Шайба Штихта) | Milled Al, painted, 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes | Gear4Rocks, 2013 | 49 | 91 | 46 | 10 | 43 | 41.3 |
|
615 2729 |
MSR Belay Link, Version A | Welded Al chain link |
|
22 | 53 | 36 | 10 | 19 | 34.5 |
|
876 | MSR Belay Link, Version B | Welded Al chain link, soft anodized | Bill Ivanoff, 2007 | 25 | 50 | 38 | 11 | 21 | 31.4 |
|
3784 | New Alp | Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 slots, eye | Denis Pivot, 2022 | 44 | 85 | 46 | 9 | 35 | 50.1 |
|
854 | Outside | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, 2 keeper cord holes | Graham Barrett, 2007 | 37 | 51 | 46 | 10 | 24 | 28.2 31.8 |
|
2791 | PBI, Version A | Milled Al, unfinished, single slot | Arthur W. McCarthy, 2020 | 34 | 68 | 39 | 7 | 17 | 33.4 |
|
617 3786 |
PBI, Version B | Milled Al, hard anodized, single slot |
|
28 | 68 | 38 | 6 | 16 | 33.4 |
|
2728 3719 |
PBI, Version C | Milled Al, hard anodized, single slot |
|
33 | 67 | 38 | 7 | 17 | 33.0 |
|
618 1643 |
REI | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots |
|
39 | 51 | 43 | 15 | 33 | 31.9 |
2723 | Rock Exotica TactiBelay F6 | Milled Al, hard anodized, 2 slots, 2 eyes | RubiconGear, 2018 | 29 | 95 | 36 | 9 | 31 | 47.7 | |
|
474 | Russian, Version A | Milled Al, unfinished, 2 slots, 4 horns, 2 eyes | John E. Weinel, Inc., 1990 | 88 | 110 | 67 | 10 | 74 | 38.8 |
|
493 | Russian, Version B | Milled Al, unfinished, 2 slots, 4 horns, 2 eyes | John E. Weinel, Inc., 1990 | 77 | 96 | 70 | 10 | 67 | 36.4 |
|
899 3774 |
Salewa 9/11, Version A (No. 1616) |
Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 slots, spring |
|
81 | 61 | 61 | 42 | 157 | 29.6 31.2 |
|
1743 | Salewa 9/11, Version B | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, cable keeper | Claudio Fontanari, 2012 | 46 | 51 | 54 | 67 | 187 | 27.2 33.0 |
|
812 | Salewa Sticht, 9/9, Version A | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots | S. Koch, 2005 | 64 | 66 | 66 | 10 | 44 | 27.5 |
|
851 | Salewa Sticht, 9/9, Version B | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots | Jayme Trombly, 2007 | 65 | 61 | 61 | 10 | 38 | 27.5 |
|
1748 | Salewa Sticht, 9/9, Version C | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots | Brian Bowness, 2012 | 70 | 66 | 66 | 10 | 45 | 28.6 |
|
790 | Salewa Sticht, 9/11, Version A | Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot | Mike Adams, 2003 | 61 | 67 | 67 | 10 | 45 | 27.0 32.2 |
|
1679 2807 |
Salewa Sticht, 9/11, Version B | Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot |
|
64 | 66 | 66 | 10 | 43 | 26.9 31.8 |
|
1700 | Salewa Sticht, 9/11, Version C | Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot | Thomas Kopp, 2010 | 55 | 63 | 63 | 10 | 39 | 27.5 32.9 |
|
1704 | Salewa Sticht, 9/11, Version D | Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot | Sidney Evans, 2010 | 63 | 66 | 65 | 10 | 41 | 27.0 32.6 |
|
1712 2719 |
Salewa Sticht, 11, Version A | Forged Al, unfinished, 1 slot |
|
39 | 67 | 34 | 10 | 23 | 33.0 |
|
891 | Salewa Sticht, 11, Version B | Forged Al, unfinished, 1 slot | Jim Chaney, 2008 | 76 | 64 | 64 | 10 | 199 | 30.6 |
|
1678 | Salewa Sticht, 11, Version C | Forged Al, unfinished, 1 slot | Harald Müller, 2010 | 69 | 63 | 63 | 10 | 40 | 30.2 |
|
621 2847 |
Salewa Sticht, 11/11, Version A | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots |
|
54 | 61 | 61 | 10 | 37 | 33.0 |
|
2852 | Salewa Sticht, 11/11, Version B | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots | Ron H. Clementi, 2021 | 61 | 65 | 65 | 10 | 44 | 30.4 |
1882 2721 |
Salewa Sticht, 11/11, Version C | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots |
|
58 | 64 | 64 | 10 | 41 | 33.0 | |
3707 | Salewa Sticht, 11/11, Version D | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots | Keith S. Bramer, 2022 | 50 | 62 | 62 | 9 | 36 | 30.8 | |
|
849 | Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/9, Version A | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring & retainer | Gareth Parry, 2007 | 96 | 68 | 66 | 45 | 202 | 28.0 |
|
1677 | Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/9, Version B | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring & retainer | Harald Müller, 2010 | 96 | 67 | 66 | 48 | 211 | 26.9 |
|
2858 | Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/9, Version C | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring & retainer | Fadi Kilani, 2021 | 98 | 68 | 66 | 50 | 224 | 26.8 |
|
620 | Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/11, Version A | Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer | 1970s | 96 | 66 | 66 | 48 | 209 | 26.8 32.8 |
|
826 1729 2672 |
Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/11, Version B | Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer |
|
98 | 67 | 68 | 42 | 191 | 26.8 32.8 |
|
855 2762 |
Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/11, Version C | Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer |
|
98 | 66 | 67 | 46 | 203 | 27.0 33.0 |
|
1695 1696 |
Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/11, Version D | Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer |
|
97 | 68 | 67 | 48 | 215 | 27.3 33.6 |
|
1730 | Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/11, Version E | Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer | Steve Booth, 2011 | 94 | 68 | 66 | 47 | 211 | 26.5 31.9 |
|
827 | Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 11, Version A | Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large slot, spring & retainer | Patrice St. Germain, 2005 | 108 | 65 | 66 | 46 | 199 | 30.6 |
|
600 | Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 11, Version B | Forged Al, soft anodized, 1 large slot, spring | Alec Rowley, 2008 | 98 | 66 | 65 | 45 | 194 | 30.7 |
|
1641 | Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 11, Version C | Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large slot, spring & straight retainer | Mark Adler, 2009 | 106 | 66 | 65 | 49 | 208 | 31 |
|
1642 | Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 11, Version D | Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large slot, spring, no retainer | Mark Adler, 2009 | 92 | 64 | 65 | 47 | 197 | 31 |
|
844 | Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 11/11, Version A | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring & retainer | Zak Ryersbach, 2007 | 86 | 64 | 67 | 44 | 190 | 31.7 |
|
1733 | Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 11/11, Version B | Forged Al, painted, 2 slots, spring & retainer | Jean Husband, 2011 | 99 | 68 | 66 | 46 | 204 | 30.2 |
|
1734 | Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 11/11, Version C | Forged Al, painted, 2 slots, spring & retainer | Jean Husband, 2011 | 99 | 68 | 66 | 49 | 218 | 30.2 |
|
623 | Single Rope Technique Equipment BP1 | Forged Al, soft anodized, round, 2 slots | Raven Products, 1990 | 50 | 61 | 61 | 10 | 37 | 28.7 |
|
624 | Single Rope Technique Equipment BPS | Forged Al, soft anodized, round, 2 slots, screwed spring | Raven Products, 1990 | 89 | 61 | 61 | 46 | 171 | 29.9 |
|
616 | Three-slot Device | Forged steel, unfinished, 3 slots | Ed Sira, 1991 | 115 | 99 | 498 | 7 | 345 | 34.0 |
|
675 | Trango, Version A | Forged Al, hard anodized, round, 2 slots, spring | Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 | 80 | 63 | 63 | 48 | 191 | 28.9 30.9 |
|
679 | Trango, Version B | Forged Al, soft anodized, round, 2 slots | Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 | 69 | 63 | 63 | 11 | 44 | 28.9 30.9 |
|
1756 | Troll | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slot | Tom Furey, 2012 | 61 | 63 | 63 | 11 | 43 | 29.2 |
|
2867 | Unknown 9/11 | Milled Al, soft anodized, 2 slots | Adventure Outdoors, 2021 | 106 | 70 | 70 | 13 | 63 | 30.9 32.2 |
|
1610 | Unknown 11, Version A | Milled Al, cable keeper crimped through holes | eBay, 2008 | 45 | 67 | 38 | 87 | 223 | 33.2 |
|
1605 | Unknown 11, Version B | Milled Al, shrink-tube covered cable keeper crimped through holes | eBay, 2008 | 46 | 67 | 39 | 75 | 192 | 33.0 |
|
3715 | Unknown 11, Version C | Aluminum plate, 1 slot | Ken Pritchard, 2022 | 69 | 63 | 63 | 10 | 38 | 27.6 |
|
2866 | Unknown 11/11 | Milled Al, soft anodized, 2 slots | Adventure Outdoors, 2021 | 82 | 64 | 65 | 13 | 54 | 32.3 |
|
795 | Viking, Version A | Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, keeper hole | Shawn Hinz, 2004 | 60 | 58 | 60 | 11 | 36 | 26.8 32.2 |
|
1785 | Viking Dynabrake | Forged Al, polished, 2 slots | Jene Mercer, 2012 | 75 | 65 | 60 | 14 | 56 | 29.9 |
|
2848 | Wild Country Brakeman, Version A | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots | Tom Smith, 2021 | 35 | 51 | 46 | 10 | 23 | 28.1 31.0 |
|
681 2792 |
Wild Country Brakeman, Version B | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots |
|
35 | 51 | 46 | 10 | 23 | 28.2 30.9 |
|
672 | Wild Country Wired Brakeman | Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, cable keeper | Exkursion, 1994 | 48 | 51 | 46 | 10 | 23 | 28.2 31.2 |
|
875 | Zero-G ZBD Sprung Belay Plate | Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 slots, spring | Cotswold Outdoor, 2007 | 81 | 63 | 63 | 41 | 162 | 29.2 31.0 |