SBG	SBG II, Ver. A	SBG II, Ver. B	SBGFG5

Overview

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SBG
(#755)

Front	Rear	Top
Left	Right	Bottom

Technical Details

I acquired my first Omega Pacific SBG from Omega Pacific in 2001. Marty Karabin gave me two more in 2022.

The Omega Pacific SBG is a slotted-block belay device. It is forged from aluminum alloy and then hard anodized. Mine is 50 mm. long, 44 mm. wide, 63 mm. high, and weighs 56 g. The slots are 39 mm. long.

One side of my SBG is printed with the Omega Pacific logo and "AA" ("AD" on the two from Marty). The other side is printed with a climber hanging from an overhang labeled "GET INSTRUCTION," and "CLIMB SAFELY."

Comments

The Omega Pacific SBG has some unique features to distinguish it from the normal ATC-type tube belayer. The big difference is the shank, which keeps the carabiner from riding up against the bottom of the tube. This tends to decrease the friction, as do the long slots (39 mm.). The SBG compensates for this by including V-grooves similar to those on the Trango Jaws, the Salewa Tubus, the Singing Rock, or the Simond Cubik. On the other end there are shallower U-grooves that can be used in the same way, but providing less friction. Neither of these options provide the higher friction that I prefer, but the SBG is also designed so that the rope can be wrapped around the shank, at least when belaying with a single rope.

One thing that I do not like about the solid shank is that it it is not as easy to rig double ropes without removing the device from the seat carabiner. Overall, I prefer rigid rod or stiff wire keepers to the rigid shank on the SBG.

Marty also gave me a plastic SBG pattern, of which he had several. We are not certain how these were used. Marty thought that these might be used as molds for casting the SBGs. That is the best explanation that I can think of as well. The dovetail seems ideal for mounting on a central rail that would create a channel to distribute molten metal to the individual SBGs. On the other handd, I had always presumed that the SBGs were forged. Forging should make them stronger than castings. Since SBG has closed their doors, it may be difficult to resolve the issue.

Front View	Side View	Bottom View

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SBG II, Version A
(#764, 2671)

Front	Rear	Top
Left	Right	Bottom

Technical Details

I acquired my Omega Pacific SBG II, Version A from Mountain Tools in 2002. I acquired another in 2017 as part of Bob Thrun’s collection.

The Omega Pacific SBG II, Version A is a slotted-block belay device. It is forged from aluminum alloy and then clear anodized. Mine is 53 mm. long, 46 mm. wide, 82 mm. high, and weighs 78 g. The slots are 39 mm. long.

One side of my SBG II, Version A is etched with the Omega Pacific logo and "AB." The other side is etched with "SBG" over top of "II."

Comments

The SBG II is a long-shank version of the SBG, The slot dimensions are essentially the same as on the SBG. The longer shank provides slightly less friction, although I don't notice a large difference; in fact, I’d prefer more friction, especially when rappelling on a haul line.

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SBG II, Version B
(#861)

Front	Rear	Top
Left	Right	Bottom

Technical Details

I acquired my Omega Pacific SBG II, Version B from Omega Pacific in 2007.

The Omega Pacific SBG II, Version B is a slotted-block belay device. It is forged from aluminum alloy and then clear anodized. Mine is 53 mm. long, 46 mm. wide, 82 mm. high, and weighs 78 g. The slots are 39 mm. long.

One side of my SBG II, Version B has a raised, forged Omega Pacific logo and is etched with"AB." The other side has a raised, forged "SBG" over top of "II."

Comments

Version B is functionally identical to Version A, but I like the the raised logo and letters for purely aesthetic reasons.

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SBGFG5
(#2790)

Front	Rear	Top
Left	Right	Bottom

Technical Details

I acquired my Omega Pacific SBGFG5 from Buffalo Gap Outfitters in 2020. A. J. Weinel of Rock-N-Rescue sent me another in 2023.

The Omega Pacific SBGFG5 is a slotted-block belay device. It is forged from aluminum alloy and then hard anodized. Mine is 53 mm. long, 45 mm. wide, 81 mm. high, and weighs 73 g. The slots are 39 mm. long.

One side of my SBGFG5 is printed with the Omega Pacific logo, "OMEGA PACIFIC," "S B G," and "FORGED." The other side is printed with "1" inside a circle with "Ø8-11" beneath, "1/2" inside a circle with "Ø7.5-11" beneath, and two linked circles inside a circle with "Ø7.5-11" beneath.

Comments

The SBGFG5 is functionally identical to the SBG 2, but no longer has the raised logo and letters. I like the hard anodizing.

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