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Petzl

Reverso3 Reverso4 Reverso
Reverso3 Reverso4 Reverso
 
Unireverso Universo Verso, Version A Verso, Version B
Unireverso Universo Verso, Version A Verso, Version B

Overview

Note: The original Reverso and the Reversino (the second in the Reverso line) are in my Miscellaneous Belay Devices category.


Reverso3
(#894)

Front Rear Top
Front Rear Top
 
Left Right Bottom
Left Right Bottom

Technical Details

I acquired my Petzl Reverso3 from Mountain Gear in 2008.

The Petzl Reverso3 is a notched belay tube. It is forged from aluminum alloy and then hard anodized. Mine is 95 mm. long, 40 mm. wide, 92 mm. high, and weighs 78 g. The slots are 32 mm. long and 13 mm. wide. The top of the Omega oval carabiner that I use for comparing belay tubes sits 13 mm. below the ends of the slots.

The Petzl Reverso3 has two slots with ribbed V-grooves at one end, a release hole underneath, and a carabiner eye at the end opposite the slots. It also has a stiff, plastic-covered cable keeper.

One side of the Petzl Reverso3 has a rigging diagram for the guide configuration, "Reverso3" (the 3 is a superscript), and "Patented." The other side has a book-with-an-"i" icon, a climbing figure, the Petzl logo, a hand-holding-a-rope figure, and "08136QA0404."

Comments

The Petzl Reverso3 has the same release hole and carabiner hole introduced on the Black Diamond ATC-Guide, and functions the same way. When belaying a second from above, a guide can clip the Reverso3 to an anchor sling with a carabiner passed through the carabiner hole (as shown on the rigging figure on the device), belaying in an autostop mode, much like one might with a Kong Gi–gi. One can release a jammed Reverso3 by passing a cord through the cord eye and pulling on the cord - possibly by looping it through a carabiner and applying body weight - but don't let go of the braking end of the rope! The Reverso3 is large, but smaller and lighter than the Black Diamond ATC-Guide. My overall impression is that I like the Reverso3.

Seth Gross sent the following comment on October 7, 2009:

Hey, I love your site! I was just glancing through it and I wanted to alert you to a possible error in your descriptio n of the Reverso3’s release mechanism. When you are belaying in self-braking mode, the device is released through a small hole similar to the one on the ATC Guide. On your site, you say the locking action is released by feeding a sling through the release hole, just like the ATC Guide. But the directions for the Reverso3 specify that a carabiner should be stuck into the hole and then used as a handle to release the device. Petzl specifically tells users NOT to feed a sling or cord through the hole to release it, I don't know why. I suspect the reason is that their "handle" method makes it easier to release the device with one hand while you hold the rope with your other hand. I know you’re not in the business of giving instruction in the correct use of the devices, but I just thought I’d let you know.

Yours, Seth Gross

Thanks Seth. A loose cord could get pulled into the device while belaying, but a carabiner cannot.

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Reverso4
(#1740)

Front Rear Top
Front Rear Top
 
Left Right Bottom
Left Right Bottom

Technical Details

I acquired my Petzl Reverso4 from Expé-Spelemat in 2012.

The Petzl Reverso4 is a notched belay tube. It is forged from aluminum alloy and then hard anodized. Mine is 95 mm. long, 38 mm. wide, 83 mm. high, and weighs 57 g. The Reverso4 has two slots with ribbed V-grooves at one end. The slots are 32 mm. long and 13 mm. wide. The top of the Omega oval carabiner that I use for comparing belay tubes sits 21 mm. below the ends of the slots.

The Petzl Reverso4 has a release hole at one end, underneath the v-grooves, and a carabiner eye at the end opposite the slots. It also has a plastic-covered cable keeper.

One side of the Petzl Reverso4 has a rigging diagram for the guide configuration, "Reverso 4," and "Patented." The other side has a book-with-an-"i" icon, a climbing figure, the Petzl logo, a hand-holding-a-rope figure, and "11368QA0302."

Comments

The sides of the Reverso4 are thinner than those on the Reverso3. This lightens the device by 21 g., but also results in it running hotter than the Reverso3.


Reverso
(a.k.a. Reverso5)
(#2754)

Front Rear Top
Front Rear Top
 
Left Right Bottom
Left Right Bottom

Technical Details

I acquired my Petzl Reverso on eBay from Got Your Gear in 2019.

The Petzl Reverso is a notched belay tube. It is forged from aluminum alloy and then hard anodized. The Reverso features two slots with ribbed v-grooves, acarabiner eye, a release hole, and a plastic-covered cable keeper. Mine is 89 mm. long, 39 mm. wide, 81 mm. high, and weighs 58 g. The slots are 35 mm. long and 14 mm. wide. The top of the Omega oval carabiner that I use for comparing belay tubes sits 20 mm. below the ends of the slots.

One side of the Reverso is etched with " 8.5<Ø<11," "1/2" inside a circle followed by "7.1<Ø<9.2," a Hopf link inside a circle followed by "7.1<Ø<9.2," a climber icon, the Petzl logo, "REVERSO," and a hand-holding-a-rope icon. The other side is etched with an illustration of rigging from a top anchor. a book-with-an-"i" icon, "EN 15151-2," "UIAA," a scanner code, "18311Q0237," and "Patented."

Comments

The Reverso followed the Reverso4, but Petzl decided to recycle the original Reverso name rather than following the sequence and calling this the Reverso5. Performance is simlar to the Reverso4.

This model Reverso received U.S. Patent #D875,507S in 2020.

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Unireverso
(#1809)

Front Rear Top
Front Rear Top
 
Left Right Bottom
Left Right Bottom

Technical Details

I acquired my Petzl Unireverso from Expé-Spelemat in 2014.

The Petzl Unireverso consists of a Petzl Reverso4 permanently attached to a Petzl Attache carabiner with a plastic slider attached around the keeper. The combination is 38 mm. long, 95 mm. wide, 157 mm. high, and weighs 123 g. The slider is made from two pieces of injection-molded plastic assembled with two philips-head screws.

One side of the Petzl Reverso4 has a rigging diagram for the guide configuration, "Reverso 4," and "Patented." The other side has a book-with-an-"i" icon, a climbing figure, the Petzl logo, a hand-holding-a-rope figure, and "13322QA0225." The slider has the Petzl Logo printed on the front and "Patented" molded on top. The carabiner has a scanner code, "SL," a book-with-an-"i" icon, and "14028/00729" printed on one side. The same side has "PAT.," an "H" inside a circle, and "PETZL ATTACHE" in raised forged symbols. The other side has "CE 0082," "kN↔22 ↕7," an open carabiner icon followed by "6," and "UIAA," all in raised forged symbols.

Comments

By permanently attaching the carabiner to the Reverso4 with a sliding link, Petzl found a reliable solution to something that I thought was a nonexistent problem. Plan on carrying one more carabiner on your climbs.


Universo
(#1856)

Front Rear Top
Front Rear Top
 
Left Right Bottom
Left Right Bottom

Technical Details

I acquired my Petzl Universo from Banana Fingers in 2015.

The Petzl Universo is a notched belay tube. The Petzl Universo consists of a Petzl Verso permanently attached to a Petzl Attache carabiner with a plastic slider attached around the keeper. The combination is 70 mm. long, 52 mm. wide, 124 mm. high, and weighs 112 g. The slider is made from two pieces of injection-molded plastic assembled with two philips-head screws.

Each side of the Petzl Verso has a rigging diagram consisting of a climbing figure, and a hand-holding-a-rope figure.One side also has the the Petzl logo, "13141," and "QA0482." The other side has "VERSO" and a book-with-an-"i" icon.

The slider has the Petzl Logo printed on the front and "Patented" molded on top. The carabiner has a book-with-an-"i" icon, "13136," and "IJ2001" on one side. The same side has "PAT.," an "H" inside a circle, and "PETZL ATTACHE 3D" in raised forged symbols. The other side has "CE 0082," "kN↔22 ↕7," an open carabiner icon followed by "6," and "UIAA," all in raised forged symbols.

Comments

By permanently attaching the carabiner to the Verso with a sliding link, Petzl found a reliable solution to something that I thought was a nonexistent problem. Plan on carrying one more carabiner on your climbs.


Verso, Version A
(#1638)

Front Rear Top
Front Rear Top
 
Left Right Bottom
Left Right Bottom

Technical Details

I acquired this Petzl Verso from Expé-Spelemat in 2009.

The Verso is a notched belay tube. It is forged from aluminum alloy and then hard anodized. Mine is 51 mm. long, 40 mm. wide, 84 mm. high, and weighs 54 g. The slots are 31 mm. long and 14 mm. wide. The top of the Omega oval carabiner that I use for comparing belay tubes sits 9  mm. below the ends of the slots.

The Petzl Verso has two slots with ribbed V-grooves at one end. It also has a stiff, plastic-covered cable keeper.

Each side of this Verso has a rigging diagram consisting of a climbing figure, and a hand-holding-a-rope figure.One side also has the the Petzl logo, "09028," and "QA1411." The other side has "VERSO" and a book-with-an-"i" icon.

Comments

The Petzl Verso is more conventional than the Reverso3, and I might compare it to the Black Diamond ATC-XP, DMM V-Twin, and similar devices. The teeth are deep enough to efficiently increase friction, and the cable is stiff enough and short enough to stay out of the way.


Verso, Version B
(#2757)

Front Rear Top
Front Rear Top
 
Left Right Bottom
Left Right Bottom

Technical Details

I acquired my Petzl Verso, Version B from on eBay from Silas Dean Pawn in 2019.

This verrsion is a notched belay tube. It is forged from aluminum alloy and then soft anodized. It features two slots with ribbed v-grooves and a plastic-covered cable keeper. Mine is 52 mm. long, 42 mm. wide, 81 mm. high, and weighs 59 g. The slots are 31 mm. long and 14 mm. wide. The top of the Omega oval carabiner that I use for comparing belay tubes sits 17 mm. below the ends of the slots.

Each side of this Verso has a rigging diagram consisting of a climbing icon and a hand-holding-a-rope icon, as well as the Petzl logo and "VERSO." One side also has "EN15151-2," a "19016Q0376," a scanner code. "UIAA," and a book-with-an-"i" icon.

Comments

There are minor shape differences between the two Verso versions, but their perfrormance is essentially identical.

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