Ice anchors: Stubai

Ice Pitons

Werk (or Werkgen) Fulpmes is the shortened form of “Werkgenossenschaft der Stubaier Kleineisenindustries – Fulpmes” (Cooperative of Stubai Small Iron Industries - Fulpmes), a co-op of 27 small ironworks in the Fulpmes area of the Stubai Valley, Austria that banded together in 1897. They produced tools and other metal products, including mountaineering equipment.

In 1955, Werkgen Fulpmes started marketing various products with the “Stubai” name. In the next few years they gradually used the "Stubai" name for more products. Werkgen Fulpmes officialy adopted the "Stubai" company name in 1960, and subsequently marketed all their items under the Stubai brand name.

↑ Set 282, 281: Stubai Ice Pitons

Made in Austria [ca. 1960].
Hand forged.

↑ 281: Stubai Ice Piton

Made in Austria [ca. 1960].
245x11x6 mm.
Hand-forged, pointed tip

↑ 282: Stubai Ice Piton

Made in Austria [ca. 1960].
260x12x7 mm.
Hand-forged, chisel tip

Mawra Ice Screws

Stubai started producing Mawra ice screws in 1961. These were the first mass-produced ice screws and were a vast improvment over ice pitons. The advent of tubular ice screws around 1965 rendered the Mawra's obsolete for climbing, but they remain useful for removing wine bottle corks.

Sebastian (Wastl) Mariner designed the Mawra, hence its name.

↑ 223: Stubai Mawra

Made in Austria [Early 1960s].
170x7 mm.
Designed by Austrian Sebastian (Wastl) Mariner ca. 1961. Mawras are more difficult to place than later tubular screws. They came in lengths from four to nine inches (100-225 mm.).

Half Tubular Ice Screws

Stubai started producing tubular ice screws in the 1970s. Early versions had a problem with ice getting stuck inside when the screw was removed, making a second placement problematic. Stubai's solution was to remove one side of the tube. Placing these screws feels a bit strange to me.