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MSR
Ice Axes & Ice Hammers

Larry Penberthy founded MSR in 1969. He sold MSR to REI in 1981. In August 2001 REI sold MSR to Cascade Designs.

Larry Penberthy tested the strength of wood ice axe shafts and concluded that wood shafts were too weak for safety. MSR's Eagle and Thunderbird were among the first metal-shaft ice axes to address the issue.

Many traditional climbers resisted the transition away from wood shafts. Yvonne Chouinard reportedly even went so far as to call the Thunderbird a "day-glow metal monster more suitable for assassinations than ice climbing." Curious words from the famous climber whose Climaxe somewhat resembles the shortened Werk Fulpmes ice axe used to assassinate Leon Trotsky in 1940.

Nevertheless, the advantages of metal (and later fiberglass and other composite) ice axe shafts over wooden shafts intimately drove the latter from the serious climbing market.

Larry Penberthy wrote extensively about his ice axe design principles in various Mountain Safety Research Newsletters. I particularly recommend Issue 4 from 1971. While some of his points are not fully accepted, (e.g., he put more emphasis on self-arrest than self-belay), they make great topics for contemplation.

My collection of MSR Ice Axes and Hammers includes examples of the major models and design options. My Ice Steiger is particularly uncommon. The one axe I am missing is the St. Parbat. Please email me if you have one that you are willing to part with.

Ice Axes

Ice Steiger

MSR introduced an aluminum ice axe with a 410 stainless steel head in their February 1970 newsletter. At the time they simply called it the MSR Ice Axe. It was expensive at $37.50, and even at that price MSR did not make any profit. In the next newsletter (May 1970) they announced that they would be receiving Stubai heads, allowing them to produce more affordable axes. At the time, they continued offering the MSR Ice Axe, but it no longer appeared in their next (February 1971) newsletter.

The Ice Steiger matches the time and description of the MSR Ice Axe given in the 1970 newsletters. I bought my Ice Steiger from the original owner in December 2025, along with the original sales receipt from MSR. He bought it mail-order from MSR on August 30, 1970. The axe's name "Ice Steiger" appears on the sales receipt.

Ice Steiger Ice Steiger Receipt

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Markings

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Stubai-headed Ice Axes

IStubai-headed Axes The original MSR Ice Axe, a.k.a. Ice Steiger, was expensive and unprofitable. In their May 1970 newsletter MSR announced that they would be receiving 200 Stubai heads and putting their own aluminum/fiberglass shafts on these. Five models were offered, the Nanga Parbat, Wallner, Stubai Heavy, Stubai Light, and Aschenbrenner Light. Prices were reasonable, ranging from $19.50 to $21.75.

I do not have any of these rare axes in my collection.

Eagle

Eagle and SumnerMSR's experience with using European heads showed that that approach was not economically viable. They needed a new process. The fourth (February 1971) MSR Newsletter describes the process and the resulting Eagle ice axe:

"The new process is simple. The pick and tang portions are flame-cut as one piece from 1/4" plate, and the adze is stamped from 1/8" plate. The two are welded together by the TIG (Tungsten-inert gas) process. The steel is chrome-moly Type 4130 including the weld metal, the same as used in pitons and aircraft. The final shaping and finishing are done by conventional milling, grinding, and drilling.

"Our initial thought was to make a reliable axe that would have excellent self-arrest capability on hard snow and ice, which would cut steps with the adze, but not with the pick. This axe head was named the EAGLE. It has a good hooking angle, 68°, and has a 30° included-angle point. Its main use will be for ice climbing specialists."

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Thunderbird

MSR's Thunderbird was derived from the MSR Eagle. The fourth (February 1971) MSR Newsletter tells the story:

Thunderbird Pick"Suddenly, while testing the Eagle, came the dawn! By lengthening the radius of the upper edge of the pick, retaining the same hooking angle of the lower edge, the pick could also be used for cutting steps In appearance, the upper edge and the lower edge of the pick diverge as they approach the point. By providing positive clearance of the cutting edge, self-arrest capability is retained. This is the design concept called THUNDERBIRD.

"Field testing quickly showed the THUNDERBIRD advantages : Kick (bounce, vibration) is gone! Steps can be cut with greater precision, both with the pick and with the adze. When cutting with the pick, the ice chips spurt to the right and left, not into your face. There is 6° to 10° less tendency of the ice below the step to flake out because the splitting force is uni-directional, not 360° around the point. Excellent hooking power is retained.

"This name, Thunderbird, comes from its resemblance to the beak of mythical thunderbirds on the totem poles of Western American Indians."

Thunderbird PickLarry filed for a patent on April 25, 1972 and received U. S. Patent No. 3,735,434 on May 29, 1973.

The original 1971 Thunderbirds did not have teeth. "Teeth on Thunderbird are not wanted, because they make the pick stick too much in hard snow." MSR began offering Thunderbird teeth as an option in 1972, and made teeth standard in 1976.

Thunderbirds picks were 1/4" (6.3 mm.) thick to improve self arrest in medium snow where thinner picks slice through. MSR quietly reduced the thickness to 3/16" (4.8 mm.) in 1978.

The standard Thunderbird had a steel head. MSR also offered a lighter aluminum Thunderbird, the Light-ee. It was half a pound lighter but less durable. "This axe is not for chopping rocks… the edge will dent."

Thunderbird PickMSR offered a shaft extension for their shorter ice axes and ice hammers. Separating the two parts made the axe easier to carry in a pack.

In 1971 Larry wrote,

We think the Thunderbird axe is the best axe in the world today, and we recommend it for general climbers as well as for the experts.

Surely there is some marketing behind that statement, but when it was published in 1971, there was nothing else in the U.S. market quite like the Thunderbird. It remains a good axe for its designed purpose.

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Thunderbird Light–ee

Thunderbird Light–eeRealizing that many climbers never chop steps in hard ice, MSR developed a lighter Thunderbird with an aluminum head. It was half a pound lighter but less durable than the traditional steel-head Thunderbird.

MSR reminded climbers of the obvious: "This axe is not for chopping rocks… the edge will dent."

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Stilletto / Stiletto

MSR introduced the Stiletto Ice Axe and Hammer in their March 1975 newsletter. They spelled it "Stilletto" in 1975 but changed to "Stiletto" in the March 1976 Newsletter. In the earlier newsletter they wrote the following:

"These new axes are made specifically for hard snow and ice climbing. The picks are needle pointed for instant hooking without need for hard impact, Stirrups can be connected between the carabiner hole and the foot for climbing as if on Jumars. Please be top-roped while you learn the technique."

The bump above the carabiner hole allowed looping the rope or a webbing over a placed axe.

The Stiletto Ice Axe and Hammer were not listed in their March 1977 or later newsletters.

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Sumner

Thunderbird vs. SumnerMSR described the Sumner as follows:

"The Sumner is based on the T-Bird axe and is named for Bill Sumner who had us make a special model for technical ice climbers . The hooking angle is 53 ° (instead of 68°') for superior holding power. The pick is thinner and the cleaving angle is narrower for easy penetration and less fracture in ice. The adze is flat and straight for step cutting. The steel edged spike does not skid on ice. We think this is the best technical ice axe there is."


 

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Sumner - Prototype Spikes

TSumner Recall NoticeSumners sold before May 1976 had forged spikes. MSR changed the design and Sumners sold from May through September 1976 had spikes made by butt-welding the "spear head" to a round shank. One of these broke during field testing. MSR issued a recall notice on the March 1977 Newsletter.

These prototypes were made and used to test a new spike design. After testing, this design was incorporated into all Sumner axes sold after September 1976.


 

375: MSR Sumner (prototype spike) 375: MSR Sumner (prototype spike) 375: MSR Sumner (prototype spike) 375: MSR Sumner (prototype spike)

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North Wall Hammers

Eagle and Thunderbird HammersMSR introduced the Thunderbird Hammer in their February 1971 newsletter. It was not listed in the March 1977 or later newsletters.

MSR introduced the Eagle Hammer in their April 1973 newsletter. It was not listed in the March 1977 or later newsletters.

In 1975 and 1976, MSR also offered a the similar "Stilletto"/"Stiletto" hammer. It had a more steeply-drooped pick made specifically for hard snow and ice climbing. I do not have a Stiletto hammer in my collection.

Eagle Hammer

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Thunderbird Hammer

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